Natural gifts to the delight of perfumers

 To create your own flavors perfumers use a huge range of fragrant materials. Fragrances (essential oils) contained in the specific cells of the plant in the form of small droplets. They are found not only in flowers, but also in leaves, fruit peel and even wood plants. All the means consist of a perfume fragrance (mixture of odoriferous substances), alcohol and water. The perfume composition may include both natural fragrances and aromatic substances of synthetic origin.  

Can be divided into three flavor of its basic notes

If you imagine the aroma in the form of a triangle, then on top of it willinitial or top note - the smellWhich we feel immediately after application of perfume on the skin. Fragrance top note is determined most easily volatile substances fragrance (essential oils of orange, lemon, bergamot), which mixes with the smell of alcohol. The top note refreshes and tones, but only about transmits the true flavor of the composition.

The most favorite among perfumers at all times remains bergamot, being an integral part of quality spirits. Modern designers appreciate it for its fruity floral bouquet that is passed to create them. His oil refreshes and invigorates. It promotes good emotional state, balancing tranquility and excitement. Study of Italian scientists have shown that oil of bergamot reduces fear and anxiety, reduces depression, sadness and anger.

Equalization of emotions going on, thanks to the activity of the hypothalamus. The smell of his oil to stabilize the psyche of a person in a precarious emotional state. It evokes a feeling of happiness and joy, in addition, can raise self-esteem. In moments of sadness and bitterness oil of bergamot allows you to heal emotional pain and to instill or restore a sense of love.

After 20-30 minutes the smell on your skin magically begins to change, and then for a few hours on the skin holds trueperfume - middle note, or "heart note". It is this smell is basic and fully characterize the aroma. By the middle note perfumers determine the direction of flavor. Fragrances "heart notes" are less volatile, they do not sound separately and merge into a single flavor, perfectly complementing each other and shading. Median note women's perfume can consist of odoriferous substances pozy, jasmine, wild lily, ylang-ilanga, sometimes shaded by dpevecnymi, fruity, spicy notes.

In the creation of the world-famous perfume "Chanel №5» involved two men and one plant. The inventors of these spirits became Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel and Ernest Beaux (Beaux). Ernest Gabriel ordered to make a "perfect scent for women." In 1921, Ernest introduced Coco Chanel two series of samples: from number 1 to number 5 and a number of the 20 th to 24 th. She chose the 5th number consisting of aromas of rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang.

In the language of Tagalog (one of the most common languages ​​in the Philippines) "ylang-ylang" but rather, "Alang-Alang" means "flower of flowers vsex" (flower of flowers). Ylang-ylang used in perfumery ("Eastern" and "floral" compositions), in aromatherapy, and in cosmetics. It is believed that the scent of ylang-ylang has a calming effect, normalizes high blood pressure, and is also considered an aphrodisiac. In Indonesia, without flowers of ylang-ylang does not do any one wedding ceremony, religious rites.

Third note - basic. Its flavor can be felt only a few hours after applying perfume. Base note is the base of the triangle of our scheme. It is formed of the most difficult of volatile substances that can remain on the skin for days. Clothing, which got a drop of spirits, sometimes retains flavor base notes of several months. Substances that determine flavor base notes (sandalwood, patchouli, musk and amber), perfumers called "locks" because their main purpose - to "fix" flavor, that is to make it more stable.

Catchers have a very rich, tart, spicy, sugary-sweet aroma that can drown out light notes of fruit and flowers. That's why perfume compositions floral, fruity, marine areas perfumers are trying to add a very small amount of these substances. The smell of such compositions is light, airy, but not too persistent.

Musk - One of the most mysterious perfume ingredients. He gives the flavor of sensuality, spaciousness, warmth and liveliness. Note of musk - is animalic, sweet, a little ammonia odor. But fans of perfumery know that musk can be very different: the repulsive and attractive, chemical and warm, sweet and balsamic, sharp and enveloping, earthy and powdery, and buttery chocolate, sharp and skin, resin and a spicy, dry, spicy and woody.

But Musk is mysterious, not only for its contrasts. Still a great mystery for many is its origin. Indeed, musk - it's not a fruit or flower, no spice and no tar, no wood and leather. So what? Originally obtained from musk musk glands of musk deer males - a small deer that lives in the mountain forests of the Himalayas, Tibet, Eastern Siberia, Korea and Sakhalin. To get a kilo of musk, it was necessary to "sacrifice" 30-50 deer.

This method of musk was used until 1979, while the musk deer (or musk deer) were not protected by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora. The scientists faced the task of creating an artificial musk. In fact, synthetic (nitroglycerin) Musk was obtained as early as 1888 Bayer scientist Albert (Albert Bauer). He was named Musk Bauer. Soon invented other nitroglycerin musk: Musk Xylene, Musk Ketone and Musk Ambrette. Even then, they began to be used in perfumery.





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